Lunch at Rochefort – 17th c boat Hermione. Stayed at Talmont-sur-Gronde. With a church with water on 3 sides and strange fishing huts on stilts with very crafty fishing nets
The next day we headed to Jonzac – sounded a lot better in the travel book than it was. Drove to Blaye- a walled city on the river with a lovely castle. Stayed in the tiny village of Sauternes, went for a walk and decided to have dinner in a restaurant overlooking the vineyards
Bazas turned out to be a very quiet, sleepy town. Spent an hour chatting to an art restorer in main street. Other than the old church there was not a lot to look at. Passed through Navarreox a small walled town with lovely ramparts. Drove on late into the evening to get to Oloron-ste-Marie as we wanted to head to Spain over mountains. Looked at the weather forecast and found that the Pass over the Pyrenees was blocked by snow so had to drive back to the coast to San Sebastian, an extra 400km drive. On and off rain, had trouble finding the campsite. Sat Nav sent us the back road until we got to a very narrow steep farm track, fortunately there was an old guy outside the last house who told us with a lot of sign language that this was not the way to the camp and to go up the other side of the hill. After a six-point turn using his driveway we started our way back down only for the tv antenna to get pulled out by a low hanging branch over the road. Fortunately borrowed a ladder at the camp and re-fixed it, a 3 minute job. Will now be a little more careful.
After a long day’s drive to Leon going via Santander on the coast and then a long road over flat terrain. Spent the next day walking round Leon, found a great and informative museum on the roman occupation of Spain. Cathedral closed for wedding, but spent an hour people watching the guests and the bride along with a few hundred other tourists. Also saw a lot of the walkers on the pilgrim trail. Later in the day we moved on to Zamara, with a pretty town aires near a playground. Walked up to the castle and Davina did a painting of the Cathedral.
The next day we headed into Portugal and found a little town called Braganca. Aires was located in the valley below the old walled city. Walked along city walls, drank sangria and then bought cherries from a local farmer who pitched up at the camp. Ridiculously cheap at E2.00 per kg and straight off the trees.
Scenic drive to Vilantao stayed at a private aires owned by French guy, very small village still using donkey carts plus a few Maserati tractors. Following day we cycled and then had dinner with the owners and 10 of the other people staying in the camp.
Amazingly scenic drive through steep valleys covered in vineyards to Peso da Regua. Brakes were starting to smell Very hot 39 staying at aires under bridge on the edge of the town. Walked around town before going to Viseu another scenic drive. Aires was a carpark but near town, walked around but extremely hot with temperatures in the low forties but heat reflecting back off all the stone paving makes it feel a lot hotter.
Drove to Trancoso, looked around walled town, chatted to a South African woman at castle. Stayed in Almeida, where they were getting ready for festival with hundreds of candle lights around the tunnel under the castle.
The next day we decided to head east back into Spain to Salamanca, stayed in campsite. Cycled to city. Amazing. Looked round cathedral. Celebrated our anniversary with beer and Tapas in the main square. Had our own band as we sat next to a local folk group who had come for a few drinks after a concert and their beers loosened them up and the were singing and playing umpteen different types of guitars and generally entertaining all the tourists.
Our brief sojourn in Spain was followed by a nothe long day drive back into Portugal. Salamanca was definitely worth the two days drive there and back. Passed through Sortelha, a small medieval village at the top of the hill. We were the only ones there except for three café owners. Felt obliged to have a drink and watch the Americas Cup racing. A good excuse to escape the heat.
Monsantoproved to be a very steep walk up to the village and castle. They claim to be “the most Portugese town in Portugal”.
Aveiro claims to be the Venice of Portugal. Took a boat ride but to be honest it is a lovely town but far cry from Venice. It has a few canals. Davina tried the local delicacy moule cakes. Spent the night at the nearby town of Costa Nova famous for all the striped houses. A tradition continued on from the old fishermans cottages. Dinner at restaurant listed in Michelin Guide but found it a bit disappointing. The Aires in Costa Nova was behind the sand dunes on the beach.
Batalha – ornate cathedral, very upmarket. Tomar has the amazing Convent de Cristo, nothing like we were expecting. Stayed at Foz do Arelho on the beach.
The following day we headed over to stay with Bev and Richard Bannister (old friends of Davina’s) at Praia del Rey golf estate. Turned out to be across the lagoon from last nights camp site. Had coffee at surf beach with Bev and Richard. Drove down beach, very scenic, stopped at Ericeira a surf beach, at Odrinhas, before heading to Lisbon.
Did hop on hop off bus in Lisbon. Found Lisbon disappointing as was expecting something more like Madrid with more history. Unfortunately most of the old buildings were destroyed in 1755 earthquake. Should have done some research beforehand.
Enjoyed stopping at the many lovely beaches along this part of the coast- Sines, Vila Novade Milfontes, Almograves,lighthouse at Zambujeira do mar, with interesting rocky cliffs.
Drove to surf beach and along beach drive. Scrapped van on bus mirror. Stopped at aires owned by welsh couple at Budens, very pretty bu hot.
Drove to Algarve but limited parking. Stopped at Silves to look at castle but 38 degrees. Drove on to Faro where I managed to wedge the bike rack into tree at carpark. Took two hours to get free by jacking rear wheels and placing rocks under to lift rear wheels over kerb. Fortunately got away with no lasting damage but learned that the electronically controlled clutch is useless when you need some extra power. Stayed by beach at Mantra Rota very pretty.
Fairly long unspectacular drive to Seville, stayed at aires at a marina. Met another NZ couple there. Way too hot at 45 degress to go into town so had drinks in the bar and talking until after 12:00. Next day caught a bus into town visited Alcazar Palace first as it was another hot day, lots of Moorish influence, then up the tower of the largest gothic cathedral in Europe.
Walked around Carmona very hot, the Castle turned into a hotel so no viewing. Moved onto Cordoba carpark aires near the walls airing in the early evening, Walked into old town and booked tickets to watch the Spanish horse display at 9:00 pm. Following day we explored Cordoba but were largely defeated by the extreme heat.
Valencia was the last stop on the Spanish leg with a lot of very lovely relatively new architecture. With the temperatures in the mid 40’s we decided to head back to France.
More photos in the next post.